As I was walking out of work, my cell rang to U2's 'The Sweetest thing" (Doug's ringtone.and our song..awww :D). He was calling to say he wanted to stop by a surf shop in Orange (by Anaheim) and grab a body board. A part of me laughed..but asked him if I could just come get him and we could go together.
I laughed, not to make fun of Doug, but because of some of the reasons why I knew he wanted a board. My hubby grew up in Northern and Southern California as a kid, and did his fair share of surfing, "boogie boarding" (what body boarding was called back then), and skateboarding. So I laughed, because I knew maybe part of him was trying to capture the excitement of being in the water that young Doug had as a kid. But I shook my head at the thought of getting a board for myself. That would be a HUGE waste of money for a land locked Native of Colorado, who is EXTREMELY fearful of open water like an ocean right? How could I hold my own against waves? What if I drowned?
We got to Ron John's surf shop only for me to find that a body board for myself really wasn't that expensive. I figured if I hated it, or sucked miserably, I was only out a few dollars..right?
Our plans were to get up early enough, get the beach, find a place to park, and stake our claim to our piece of sand early. We had made a trip to the beach before (down by Laguna) and realized how busy they could get by 3pm. I told Doug if we could get up super early (around 6am) we could be down there by 7:30 or 8, wait a bit for it to warm up..and ba'am, hit the water.
And that is EXACTLY what we did, Saturday morning. Heading down there with excitement, we made it down with NO traffic (ah the power of planning a drive in California always works so m much better). We waited a bit, stepping into the water for the first time around 10:30 or 11. I have NEVER felt water so cold BRRRRR. But my theory, as it has been the whole time we have been in California, make the most of it and REALLY allow yourself to experience your time here. Roll with it.
So, with this theory, I embraced my new little body board (a Cool Local Motion one, in a cute purple color, complete with a surfer hula girl on it) and set about "riding my first wave". It didn't look hard..but as I realized, it is ALL about timing. If you set off to catch it, you have to get enough power in your legs moving, and then let it ride you into the shore. I didn't quite get a chance to embrace this yesterday, but caught a couple of decent ones. All in all we left around 2pm from Huntington Beach, very satisfied.
Turns out for Doug even more so than I thought. After heading back into town (where temps had jumped up into the high 90s range), and after splurging on a new little grill so we can begin eating healthier and not out so often, he asked me "why don't we go back tomorrow?" I honestly couldn't think of a better way for us to cool off if we stayed in town (today was forecast to be just as hot). So AGAIN, early this morning we were off. Huntington Beach, calling our names. Today it got hotter much quicker. But to add to the mix, I brought my running shoes today, to test out my first run on the shore (not barefoot, but in packed down sand). Only about a 1/2mile to a mile run, but definitely felt great with the waves crashing to my left and right (going and coming back they changed sides obviously). No need for an ipod with music to carry me. Definitely something I want to keep doing, as I felt I got in a small, but decent work out. The wave noise was enough to push me thru.
But after that, in the water we went. And today..I accomplished my ultimate goal. Grabbing and gliding on my first really awesome wave!
Doug and I had headed out a bit off of shore. The great thing about going to Huntington for a beginner like me is that the walk out from the shore is still really shallow for a ways. Thus making it easier for me to be in what "seems like" deeper waters, but still being able to stand up and not be freaked out. Where we had a tendancy to catch most waves today the water was never higher than my waist. The best wave I caught today, just gradually built momentum. Churning faster and faster till it was to the left of me. Doug looked over..checking to see if I would catch it. And before he knew it...blaaam I was gone. I caught it at the right time...rode it up a bit (almost like floating on the crest top of the wave for a few seconds, before dropping back into the wave letting its momentum carry me in and closer to shore. By that point, I realized if I lifted my board up just a tiny bit, I could "float" on the wave, and then turn a bit if I lifted to the right and left. All and all..I had a blast. Of course this wave, led me to the worst wave that rocked me hard, immediately after. After riding my "best wave", I think I was in a bit of shock and proud of myself. Still on my board..I floated a bit waiting for the wave immediately after mine to carry me even more (at that point, there was an awesome set, waves hitting one right after the other. The second wave did carry me a bit...and I found myself almost playing super man for a bit...flying OVER my board (my chest and belly actually lifting above the board for a few inches). When I landed back on it (less than a few seconds later), I landed wrong and the wave, now breaking right on top of me..knocked me off...leading to me getting "smacked upside the head". But hey, at that point you take the good with the bad..and as long as I can snap back up to try again (which I DEFINITELY did), it was worth it.
All in all a GREAT way to beat the inland heat. I am SO excited I didn't let fear stop me from trying out the fun of body boarding. On the way home, I told Doug I am definitely hooked. I could see the glimmer of excitement in his eyes too (my boy caught some REALLY great rides..and looked awesome out there. I think he succeeded in finding young surfer Doug again). So no doubt, we will definitely be beach bums more this summer, the hotter it gets.
And I can't wait. Sand, sun and Surf. The 3 new s factors in my world now.
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